THE ORCHHA TRAVEL GUIDE

If you have planned a trip to Madhya Pradesh, make sure to include Orchha in your Madhya Pradesh itinerary. Perhaps you may not have even heard of Orchha, but trust me you should not miss out on this secret gem during your Madhya Pradesh trip. This Orchha travel guide includes all the essential practical information you need to know for planning your trip along with the best things to do in Orchha. Let’s begin!

Orchha was the most surprising discovery of my Madhya Pradesh holiday! Before planning my trip, I had’nt heard much about this small town so I did not know what to expect. And now that I have visited, here is my verdict: it is an underrated gem that is similar to Udaipur’s old town but with more authentic and low key charm. The place is compact and packed with historic sites that are all located near each other, making it a very easy place for sightseeing. Orchha is steeped in history as the seat of the Bundela kings and oozes an air of laid back relaxation. The river Betwa flows through town and the sunsets are stunning. I am so happy I included Orchha in our MP plans as it turned out to be the highlight of our trip!

HISTORY OF ORCHHA

Orccha was founded in 1531 by King Rudra Pratap Singh and became the capital of the Bundela dynasty till 1783,as a defence against increasing Mughal attacks. Orcha flourished under the Bundeli kings as evident from the various historic sites that were built here including the fort and many temples. Orccha reached it’s height of power and splendour  during the reign of King Vir Singh Deo who also built the Datia fort that can be visited on the way from Gwalior. With British rule, the kingdom signed a treaty of alliance and ultimately joined the independent Indian state in 1950. You can get a summarised version of Orchha’s history at the Light and Sound show which takes place every evening at the fort (details below).

Orchha gave rise to a new architectural style called as Bundeli architecture with a harmonious blend of Rajput and Mughal styles. This is evident in the palaces, the chattris and the temples. King Vir Singh Deo also built many temples in North India thereby spreading Bundeli architecture to other places.

Orchha is also a living cultural site, in the sense that despite newer development, the historic character of the town has still been preserved and the monuments and temples have been maintained thanks to the efforts of the community. Currently Orchha is in the tentative list of UNESCO cultural heritage sites and hopefully it will soon be declared as a UNESCO world heritage site as it deserves.

ORCHHA TRAVEL GUIDE

HOW TO REACH ORCHHA

1. FLIGHTS: The nearest airport is in Gwalior which has flights from most major Indian cities. Orchha is located 120 kms from Gwalior and it is a 2 hour road journey from there. The cab price is approx Rs 3000.
2. TRAIN: The nearest railway station is in Jhansi, 13 kms from Orchha town.
3. BUS: Buses run from all towns in Madhya Pradesh.

WHEN TO VISIT ORCHAA

The best time to visit is from November to February. Summer begins from March and sightseeing in the high temperatures becomes very difficult and exhausting. Winters can get very cold especially during evenings and night so pack your woollens accordingly. In my opinion, the best time to visit is during February when the days are pleasant for sightseeing and the nights are not too cold and can be managed with a sweater/light jacket.

HOW MANY DAYS SHOULD YOU SPEND IN ORCHAA?

You can easily see all the sights listed here in 1 full day. But personally, I would suggest 2 days in Orchha to simply take it slow and relax in this charming laidback town. In India, there are’nt too many places where you can get this sort of feel, so make the most of it!

WHERE TO STAY IN ORCHHA?

Honestly, accommodation is one of the areas where you can fully feel the difference between a popular tourist destination and those that are still developing their tourist infrastructure. And Madhya Pradesh definitely falls into the latter category as it’s still developing as a tourist destination. Except for Bandhavgarh (and other tiger parks) which are internationally popular among the wildlife seeking crowd, most places in Madhya Pradesh lack good mid range hotel options. You are stuck between a few luxury hotels that are way over priced or budget guesthouses that certainly are’nt my idea of a good holiday. So in MP, I will recommend you to stay in the Madhya Pradesh tourism hotels that have good locations, service and a mid range price point. And the best MPT hotels in MP are undoubtedly in Orchha: Hotel Sheesh Mahal and Hotel Betwa Retreat.

Hotel Sheesh Mahal: The best place to stay as it is actually inside the Orchha fort. It was originally a part of the palace that has been converted into a heritage hotel and belongs to the MP government.

Hotel Betwa Retreat: This one is located near the Betwa river and is another good option for those want to stay near the river.

GETTING AROUND IN ORCHHA

Orchha is one of the best places to walk around and sightsee as most of the sights are located near each other. To visit those that are a bit further, you can use tuk tuks that are easily available.

ORCHHA TRAVEL GUIDE: THE BEST THINGS TO DO IN ORCHHA

1. ORCHHA FORT:

The most famous attraction in Orcha is the Fort whose construction began in 1501 and continued for many years with new buildings being added by the kings of every generation. The main highlights here include Jahangir mahal (Built for the Mughal emperor Jahangir’s 1 night stay), the residential Raja mahal with it’s beautiful wall paintings, Praveen Rai mahal, Sheesh mahal (now a government  hotel) along with other temples and edifices.  The fort opens at 8am and it’s best to arrive here early to escape the heat. Taking a guided tour is highly recommended to know more about the history and architectural elements.

Entry time: 8am-5pm Daily. Ticket price: Rs 10 (Indians), Rs 250 (foreigners), Rs 400 (camera fee) The entry and camera fee for Orchha fort is valid for 1 full day across all monuments in Orchha.

2. JAHANGIR MAHAL

The main attraction inside the fort is this 3 storey palace that was built in the 17^th century by King Vir Sigh Deo for the Mughal emperor Jahangir’s first visit to Orchha. The palace was  built with a mix of both muslim and Rajput architecture and these features can be easily pointed out to you by a guide. There is a square inner courtyard with 8 large domes, projecting platforms, balconies and lattice windows. Go early and walk across the various rooms to soak in the history while also getting some good shots!

PHOTOGRAPHY TIPS: The main inner square courtyard is very beautiful and if you want photos here come right at opening time to avoid tour groups. Next, take the door to the right of the courtyard to go out and you will find a beautiful view point where you can see the various structures dotting the fort premises. The stunningly carved monumental door here is another photo point. After this, go up and walk through the corridors and rooms where there are lots of good framing oppurtunities for photography. Lastly, while upstairs go to the left side balconies to get a good view of Chaturbhuj temple.

3. RAJA MAHAL:

This was the residential palace of the royal family and was built by King Rudra Pratap and completed by his successor King Madhukar Shah in the 17^th century. The palace is another example of Mughal inspired architecture with it’s arches and stone jalli work. Though simple, the main highlights here are the beautiful murals on the walls and ceilings depicting stories from mythology and religion.

4. CHATURBHUJ TEMPLE:

Built in the 16^th century by King Madhukar Shah, this beautiful temple has one of the highest spires/towers among Hindu temples at 344 ft. The name ‘Chaturbhuj’ means 4 arms and refers to the Ram incarnation of Lord Vishnu. It was originally built to house an idol of Ram that was brought by Madhukar Shah’s queen, Ganesh Kuwari from Ayodhya. But this idol was ultimately housed in the Rani mahal (Queen’s palace) part of the palace that is now known as Raja Ram temple. The Chaturbhuj temple looks pretty imposing with it’s multiple storeys, large entrance and central tower. Local people say that the towers were originally covered with gold which has been stolen over the years. Reaching this temple involves climbing 67 narrow and steep steps that will add to your daily steps! Today it is dedicated to Radha-Krishna. Go to the upper floors to get a panaromic view of Orchha fort and the town from above.

 Ticket is included with the fort ticket. Entry time: 8am-5pm daily.

5. RAJA RAM TEMPLE

The speciality of this temple is that this is the only temple in the country where Lord Ram is worshipped as a king, hence the name ‘Raja’(King) Ram temple. The temple premises is a part of the Orchha fort and was originally the Rani mahal or Queen’s palace which was later converted into the temple. A guard of honour takes place daily during the time of aarti and armed police guards are posted here for protection. The aarti occurs at 8am, 12,30pm,8pm and 10:30pm.

TIP: There is a shortcut path from here to Chaturbhuj temple so that you do not need to assess the main road.

6. LAXMI NARAYAN TEMPLE:

Dedicated to Goddess Laxmi, the architecture of this temple is actually a strange mix of a temple and a fort. This is not a functioning temple and there is no idol today. However, there are well preserved murals on the ceilings and walls of the 3 halls with vivid colours that showcase religious and secular scenes. It is located 4kms from the fort on top of a small hill. Tuk tuks will leave you at the bottom from where it is a short 5-10 mins walk uphill.

PHOTOGRAPHY TIP: The best photography spot here is upstairs on the roof where you can see the 4 projecting mini towers at the 4 corners. Make use of the arches to frame the towers for a better composition. Apart from this, the view from above is good too. Do not forget to take pictures of the beautiful wall paintings.

7. CHATTRIS:

Chattris meaning ‘umbrellas’ are the Royal Cenotaphs, built as the memorials of the various kings of the Bundela dynasty numbering 14 in total. Located in Kanchan ghat along the banks of the Betwa river, 1.5 km from the fort, these 3 storey tombs are built in an Indo-Islamic architecture style with elevated platforms and domes. From afar, they resemble conical peaks. They are not burial grounds, rather empty structures. Entry from 8am-6pm. Avoid the mid day sun.

PHOTOGRAPHY TIP: Go upstairs and make use of the arches and windows to frame the subject with the background of a chattri or gardens or the river. The best chattris are the ones which are lined up near the river side where you can get good views of the river and it’s surroundings.

8. RIVER BETWA:

The river passes through town and offers scenic views. Boating, kayaking and river rafting are some of the activities on offer here. Or else you can just sit on the steps of Kanchana ghat and watch the tranquil water passing by. The stunning sunsets seen here just an added bonus to the whole scene!

9. WATCH THE STUNNING SUNSETS

After visiting so many places, i can confidently say that Orchha has one of the best sunsets that i have ever seen! The serene river with the cenotaphs in the background and the flaming sky all combine to provide a picture perfect photographic scene. 

PHOTOGRAPHY TIP: There are 2 main spots here to capture the sunset:

1. The bridge (pol) that goes across the river is the most popular spot where locals and tourists alike gather and it is a Free spot. Check the first picture to see this.
2. A couple minutes walk from the bridge is a small nature park that is directly across the chattris on the riverside. Entry here is Rs 40 per person and it is open till 6pm. Go there and walk around to find many sunset spots. My favourite here was the spot at the extreme right end near a large tree. Check the second picture.

10. LIGHT AND SOUND SHOW:

Make sure to watch the light and sound show which takes place daily in the Diwan-e-aam of Orchha fort. I found the show very well produced and interesting and a good way to know about the history of Orchha.

ENTRY FEES: Rs 100 (adults), Rs 50(children). Timings: In summers, the time  is from 7:45 PM to 8:30 PM in English and 8:45 PM to 9:45 PM in Hindi. In winters, the allotted time is from 6:30 PM to 7:30 PM in English and 7:45 PM to 8:45 PM in Hindi.

Hope you found this Orchha travel guide helpful to plan your own trip. Feel free to ask any more questions in the comments. Happy travelling !

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